Our top tips for making gold jewellery
- Alys Power
- 6 days ago
- 4 min read
We train silversmiths everyday. And whilst working in this precious metal can be scary the move to working in gold feels so much scarier. But making gold jewellery isn't that much more difficult. If you can make it in silver then you can make it in gold. Just keep calm, work carefully and follow our top tips.
You’ve been honing your craft in silver—soldering, texturing, setting stones, creating magic—and now you’re eyeing that warm, buttery glow of gold. Tempting, isn’t it? Moving into gold work is a natural next step for many jewellers, whether it’s to broaden your skillset, cater to a higher-end market, or simply for the love of working with precious materials.
But as you may suspect, gold isn’t just silver with a fancier price tag. It behaves differently at the bench, requires a bit of a mindset shift, and yes—demands a little more care (and planning). Here’s a friendly guide to help ease the transition.
WHY WORK WITH GOLD?
Gold opens up new creative and business opportunities. It’s more malleable and ductile than silver, so it can be worked into finer, more detailed designs. Customers also perceive it as more luxurious and enduring—ideal for weddings, heirlooms, or investment pieces.
HOW IS IT DIFFERENT FROM SILVER?
1. Melting Points & Soldering: Gold alloys have lower melting points than silver, and they’re more forgiving when heated. However, overheating can cause firescale or even brittle metal if you’re not careful. Also, gold solders flow more predictably—bonus! Because gold doesn't conduct heat in the same way as silver you can focus more on the join area and less on heating up the whole piece. Gold solders are available in all colours and carats and should be matched to the gold you are working with.
2. Oxidation: Gold doesn’t oxidize the way silver does, which means less fuss with pickling. This is a huge plus during fabrication.
3. Cost & Waste: Gold is significantly more expensive, so mistakes are costlier. You’ll want to plan your designs carefully, measure twice (maybe three times), and recycle every scrap and filing. Start small, and don’t experiment freely like you might with silver—practice on base metals if you're unsure.
4. Workability: Gold is softer and easier to shape than sterling silver, especially higher-karat golds. It can be rolled, drawn, and hammered with less effort—but it also means it can mark more easily, so use clean, smooth tools.
5. Alloys & Colours: Gold comes in a variety of alloys (yellow, rose, white), each with its own personality. White gold, for example, can be harder to work with due to its higher palladium content and may require special solders and polishing techniques. Different colours of gold can have different alloys depending on the country and time it was made. For example, nickel is strictly controlled in UK jewellery but is a common element in white gold from the US.
6. Carats & Finesses: Gold carats (or karats in the U.S.) measure the purity of gold in a piece of jewellery or item. Pure gold is 24 carats, meaning it contains no other metals. Lower carat values, like 18ct or 14ct, indicate that the gold has been mixed with other metals such as copper or silver to improve durability and alter colour. For example, 18ct gold is 75% pure, while 14ct is about 58.3% pure. The choice of carat affects not only the item's appearance and strength but also its value and workability.
7. Hallmarking: In the UK, hallmarking is a legal requirement for gold items above one gram, ensuring they meet minimum purity standards. The hallmark is a series of marks applied by an official Assay Office and typically includes
Sponsor’s mark – Identifies the manufacturer or importer.
Fineness mark – Indicates the purity of the gold, e.g., 375 (9ct), 585 (14ct), 750 (18ct), 916 (22ct), or 999 (24ct).
Assay Office mark – Shows where the item was tested and hallmarked (London – leopard's head, Birmingham – anchor, Sheffield – rose, Edinburgh – castle).
Date letter (optional) – Denotes the year the item was hallmarked.
8. Ethics & Sustainability: When buying gold always buy from a recognised and trusted bullion dealer. As an inherently recyclable metal most gold you buy will be recycled in some form but look out for suppliers that sell recycled, fair trade or single mine origin gold with a traceable supply line. Alternatively, you can melt down and recycle your own scrap gold. Just make sure you follow basic health and safety protocol and we recommend only melting down hallmarked items so you can be sure what you are working with.
OUR TOP TIPS
1. Start with 9ct Gold: It’s more affordable, a little harder (which can be helpful as you learn), and great for experimenting with small designs like studs or stacker rings.
2. Use Gold-Plated or Gold-Filled as a Bridge: Before going full solid gold, try working with gold-filled materials to get a feel for the aesthetic and your market. It’s also a great way to transition your existing silver customers.
3. Upgrade Your Tools (Gently): Check your pliers, files, and polishing mops—gold is less forgiving of tool marks. Keep a dedicated set if you can. Contamination from silver or copper can affect finishes.
4. Keep EVERY Scrap: Gold dust, filings, offcuts—they're all valuable. Invest in a bench skin or tray, and learn how to refine or sell your scrap.
5. Market Smart: Let your customers know you’re now offering gold. Highlight the value and craftsmanship behind it. Offer custom options in both silver and gold to ease existing clients into the new range.
6. Take It Slow: There’s no rush to go full-gold overnight. Integrate it into your collection piece by piece. Use it for accents—think bezels, granulation, or mixed-metal designs—until you're confident with the medium.
SUGGESTED STARTER PROJECTS
These downloadable worksheets would all make great starter projects to transition into working with gold.
Working with gold is deeply rewarding, both creatively and professionally. While it does require a little more care, preparation, and upfront investment, the payoff in quality and perceived value is worth it. Think of it not as a departure from silver, but an evolution of your skill.
So take a deep breath, melt that first nugget, and enjoy the rich journey ahead.
Happy making!
Comments