Our top tips for making gold jewellery
- Alys Power
- Jun 9
- 4 min read
Updated: Jun 19
"We train silversmiths every day."
And whilst working with this precious metal can be daunting, transitioning to working with gold can feel even scarier. However, making gold jewellery isn't much more difficult. If you can craft in silver, then you can certainly work with gold. Just keep calm, work carefully, and follow our top tips.
You’ve honed your craft in silver—soldering, texturing, setting stones, and creating magic. Now, you’re eyeing that warm, buttery glow of gold. Tempting, isn’t it? Moving into gold work is a natural step for many jewellers. Whether it’s to expand your skillset, cater to a higher-end market, or simply due to the love of working with precious materials, the transition is rewarding.
However, as you may suspect, gold isn’t just silver with a fancier price tag. It behaves differently at the bench and requires a mindset shift. It demands more care and careful planning. Here’s a friendly guide to help ease your transition.
WHY WORK WITH GOLD?
Gold opens up new creative and business opportunities. It’s more malleable and ductile than silver, so it can be worked into finer, more detailed designs. Customers perceive gold as more luxurious and enduring. This makes it ideal for weddings, heirlooms, and investment pieces.
HOW IS IT DIFFERENT FROM SILVER?
Understanding the key differences between gold and silver is crucial for a smooth transition. Here are the essential points to consider:
1. Melting Points & Soldering:
Gold alloys have lower melting points than silver and are more forgiving when heated. However, overheating can cause firescale or even brittle metal if you're not careful. Gold solders flow more predictably, which is a bonus! Since gold doesn’t conduct heat the same way as silver, you can focus more on the join area and less on heating the entire piece. Gold solders are available in various colours and carats, so match them to the gold you're working with.
2. Oxidation:
Gold doesn’t oxidize like silver does. This means less fuss with pickling, which is a huge plus during fabrication.
3. Cost & Waste:
Gold is significantly more expensive, making mistakes costlier. You’ll want to plan your designs carefully. Measure twice (or even three times). Don’t experiment freely like you might with silver. Instead, practice on base metals if you're unsure.
4. Workability:
Gold is softer and easier to shape than sterling silver, especially higher-karat golds. It can be rolled, drawn, and hammered with less effort. However, it can mark more easily, so use clean, smooth tools.
5. Alloys & Colours:
Gold comes in different alloys (yellow, rose, white), each with its unique qualities. White gold, for instance, can be harder to work with due to its higher palladium content and may need special solders and polishing techniques. Different colours of gold can have varying alloys based on the country and the time it was made.
6. Carats & Fineness:
Gold carats (or karats in the U.S.) measure the purity of gold in a piece of jewellery. Pure gold is 24 carats, meaning it contains no other metals. Lower carat values indicate that the gold has been mixed with other metals to improve durability and alter colour. For example, 18ct gold is 75% pure, while 14ct is about 58.3% pure.
7. Hallmarking:
In the UK, hallmarking is required for gold items above one gram to ensure they meet minimum purity standards. The hallmark includes:
Sponsor’s mark: Identifies the manufacturer or importer.
Fineness mark: Indicates the purity of the gold (e.g., 375 for 9ct, 585 for 14ct).
Assay Office mark: Shows where the item was tested and hallmarked (e.g., London is a leopard's head).
Date letter: Denotes the year the item was hallmarked.
8. Ethics & Sustainability:
When buying gold, always purchase from a recognised and trusted bullion dealer. Gold is an inherently recyclable metal. Most gold you buy will be recycled; however, look for suppliers that offer recycled, fair-trade, or single-mine origin gold with a traceable supply line. You can also melt down and recycle your own scrap gold, but ensure you follow basic health and safety protocols. We recommend only melting down hallmarked items for accuracy in what you’re working with.
OUR TOP TIPS
1. Start with 9ct Gold:
It’s more affordable and a little harder, which can be helpful as you learn. It’s great for experimenting with small designs like studs or stacker rings.
2. Use Gold-Plated or Gold-Filled as a Bridge:
Before committing to solid gold, try working with gold-filled materials. This will give you a feel for the aesthetic and help you transition your existing silver customers.
3. Upgrade Your Tools (Gently):
Inspect your pliers, files, and polishing mops. Gold is less forgiving of tool marks. Keep a dedicated set if possible and ensure no contamination from silver or copper affects your finishes.
4. Keep EVERY Scrap:
Gold dust, filings, and offcuts are all valuable. Invest in a bench skin or tray and learn how to refine or sell your scrap.
5. Market Smart:
Inform your customers that you're now offering gold. Highlight the value and craftsmanship behind it. Provide custom options in both silver and gold to introduce your existing clients to the new range.
6. Take It Slow:
There’s no rush to transition fully to gold overnight. Integrate it into your collection piece by piece. Use it for accents—think bezels, granulation, or mixed-metal designs—until you're confident with the medium.
SUGGESTED STARTER PROJECTS
These downloadable worksheets would make excellent starter projects to transition into working with gold.
CONCLUSION
Working with gold is deeply rewarding, both creatively and professionally. While it demands more care, preparation, and upfront investment, the payoff in quality and perceived value is worth it. Think of it not as a departure from silver but as an evolution of your skill. So take a deep breath, melt that first nugget, and enjoy the rich journey ahead. Happy making!
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